SHANGHAI HI SILICON TECHNOLOGY CO., LTD.
SHANGHAI HI SILICON TECHNOLOGY CO., LTD.

Cosmetic Ingredients: What Issues Should Be Noted When Purchasing?

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    The core compliance principles for cosmetic ingredients are Prohibited/Restricted Substance List + Safety Assessment + CMR/SVHC Control + Special Regulation for Preservatives/Colorants + GMP Standard + Documentation & Traceability. Global regulations focus on safety risks and ingredient transparency with stricter standards than ordinary food. Detailed explanations are as follows.

    1) Primary Control: Global Prohibited/Restricted Substance List; Unlisted Products Strictly Banned

    Every market implements a clear prohibited and restricted substance list; out-of-scope or over-dose products result in full-batch return, serving as the primary compliance red line.

    • EU (EC 1223/2009): Over 1,600 prohibited substances (Hydroquinone, Retinoic Acid, heavy metals Lead/Mercury/Arsenic); restricted list specifies concentration ceilings (e.g. Phenoxyethanol preservative ≤1%). Category 1A/1B CMR (Carcinogenic/Mutagenic/Reproductive Toxic) substances are banned. 12 new nano raw materials banned and Homosalate restricted under 2025 new regulations.

    • US (FDA + MoCRA): Colorants must be on the FDA approved list with batch certification and restricted application areas (certain colorants prohibited for eye use). Preservatives and active substances require GRAS or NDI qualification; 2025 MoCRA mandates raw material filing and safety assessment.

    • China (CSAR): Over 1,300 prohibited substances specified in Technical Specification for Cosmetic Safety; restricted list refines concentration and application scope. New raw materials require registration/filing; high-risk raw materials (nano, biosynthetic) require mandatory registration.

    • Japan, South Korea & ASEAN: Independent lists implemented by Japan MHLW and South Korea MFDS with strict limits on preservatives and heavy metals; ASEAN references EU standards with inconsistent enforcement.

    Procurement Principle: Require suppliers to provide CAS Number, INCI Name, target market list compliance declaration and concentration limit description; reject unlisted products completely.

    2) Safety Assessment & Risk Control: Mandatory Test Data for CMR, SVHC, Sensitization & Phototoxicity

    Cosmetic ingredients directly contact human skin; toxicological test data is mandatory with incomplete data leading to customs clearance failure.

    • CMR Screening: EU bans Category 1A/1B CMR substances (Benzene, Formaldehyde releasers); Category 2 substances require strict dosage limits and mandatory labeling.

    • REACH SVHC: Mandatory disclosure for SVHC content >0.1%; notification required for annual volume >1 ton; common substances include Phthalates and certain siloxanes.

    • Sensitization / Irritation / Phototoxicity: EU/US require skin irritation, eye irritation, sensitization and phototoxicity test reports. Flavors, preservatives and colorants are high-risk categories requiring negative test results.

    • Nano Ingredients: EU/US mandate declaration and labeling for nano raw materials (e.g. Nano Titanium Dioxide) with particle size distribution, toxicology and exposure assessment reports required.

    Procurement Action: Mandatorily require third-party toxicological reports (SGS/Intertek) covering CMR, sensitization and phototoxicity; reject internal self-inspection reports.

    3) Special Ingredient Control: Exclusive Red Lines for Preservatives, Colorants, Active Substances & Nano Materials

    Different types of cosmetic ingredients have unique compliance risks requiring targeted verification.

    • Preservatives: EU restricts dosage of Phenoxyethanol, Parabens and Formaldehyde releasers with strict concentration ceilings; China prohibits specific Paraben esters; US requires dual efficacy and safety data.

    • Colorants: US requires FDA approved list, batch certification and application area restrictions (eye-use ban for certain colorants); EU mandates CI number, purity and heavy metal limits; China restricts colorants to the Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification list.

    • Active Substances (Pro-Xylane, Retinol, etc.): EU requires safety assessment and concentration limits; US classifies Retinol as pharmaceutical-grade with only low concentrations permitted in cosmetics; China registers new active substances as new cosmetic raw materials.

    • Nano Ingredients: Mandatory declaration for particle size <100nm with dispersion stability and toxicological data required; EU added new banned nano raw materials in 2025.

    4) Production Qualifications & GMP: Cosmetic-grade GMP + Raw Material Filing (Indispensable)

    Cosmetic ingredients worldwide must be produced under cosmetic-grade GMP standards with mandatory raw material filing in some markets.

    • EU: EU GMP (ISO 22716) required with designated EU Responsible Person (RP) and CPNP product notification.

    • US: FDA registration + GMP (21 CFR Part 111); MoCRA mandates raw material supplier filing and safety assessment.

    • China: Cosmetic production license (Cosmetics Grade); new raw materials require registration/filing and must be included in the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients.

    • Japan & South Korea: Japan MHLW certification + GMP; South Korea MFDS GMP + raw material filing.

    Procurement Action: Verify and retain stamped copies of supplier ISO 22716 certificate, production license and raw material filing certificate.

    5) Labeling & Documentation: Full INCI Ingredient List + SDS + COA + Safety Assessment + Multi-language Version

    Complete documentation and accurate labeling are mandatory for cosmetic ingredients; any missing document causes customs clearance delays.

    • INCI Name: Global unified naming standard; labels must list all ingredients in descending order of content.

    • 16-section SDS: Specifies composition, purity, impurities, toxicology, storage and transportation; bilingual in English and the destination country's language.

    • COA: Batch-specific third-party test report specifying purity, impurities, heavy metals, microorganisms and pH value.

    • CPSR (Cosmetic Product Safety Report): Mandatory in the EU covering ingredient risks, exposure dosage and toxicological conclusions.

    • Packaging Labeling: Must specify product name, INCI, CAS, purity, batch number, shelf life, storage conditions, manufacturer and signal words; multi-language labeling required.

    6) Impurity & Contamination Control: Zero Tolerance for Heavy Metals, Microorganisms, Dioxane & Formaldehyde

    Excessive impurities are a prevalent issue for cosmetic ingredients with strict global inspection.

    • Heavy Metals: Lead ≤10ppm, Arsenic ≤2ppm, Mercury ≤1ppm, Cadmium ≤5ppm; stricter limits for infant products.

    • Microorganisms: Total bacterial count ≤100CFU/g; pathogens (Salmonella, Staphylococcus Aureus) must be undetectable.

    • Dioxane / Formaldehyde: Surfactants prone to Dioxane excess (≤10ppm); preservatives prone to Formaldehyde release (≤0.1%).

    7) Environmental Compliance: Microplastics, VOC & PFAS – Key Inspection Items After 2025

    Driven by the EU Green New Deal and US EPA regulations, environmental compliance has become a new market access threshold.

    • Microplastics: EU bans microplastic particles (exfoliating microbeads).

    • PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances): EU restricts PFAS usage in cosmetics with strengthened inspections starting in 2025.

    • VOC: EU/US limit volatile organic compound emissions requiring low-VOC raw materials.

    Summary of Cosmetic Ingredient Procurement Compliance

    For global B-end buyers of cosmetic ingredients, the core compliance logic is List Compliance → Safety Assessment → Special Ingredient Control → GMP Qualification → Complete Documentation → Zero Impurity Tolerance → Environmental Compliance:

    1. List Compliance: Only purchase ingredients on target market prohibited/restricted lists; verify CAS and INCI information;

    2. Safety Assessment: Conduct CMR/SVHC screening, sensitization/phototoxicity testing and nano raw material declaration;

    3. Special Ingredient Control: Follow exclusive red lines for preservatives, colorants, active substances and nano materials;

    4. GMP Qualification: Comply with ISO 22716, cosmetic production license and raw material filing requirements;

    5. Complete Documentation: Prepare full INCI list, SDS, COA, CPSR and multi-language labeling;

    6. Zero Impurity Tolerance: Ensure compliance of heavy metals, microorganisms, dioxane and formaldehyde;

    7. Environmental Compliance: Comply with new regulations on microplastics, PFAS and VOC limits.


    References
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